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Project Kimono
An effort to redesign the kimono and make it easy to wear

By Laura Nisbet 

Continued from previous page: Project Kimono

 

Taking a basic block shape, I have inserted a pleat that would start at the middle or one shoulder and crisscross the body like a waterfall.  It would start with tiny pleats that go down the body gradually, getting bigger, until they fall down to create a unique effect on the kimono.

I have been continuing to experiment with Shibori this week and have achieved some good results. 

This is an example of the Arashi technique for which I used white velvet. The texture is created by attaching the fabric width wise around a large pole and then scrunching it up into little pleats which are held in place by string. The dyes are then painted on.

This is the sample that I mentioned earlier that was dried in the oven. If steam dried the little creases should turn black to give a very striking effect.

I think this effect would work well as a large cuff or collar pattern against a plain body, rather than using it for the whole garment.

The Itajime fabric technique is created by sandwiching the fabric in between two shapes and then wrapping the excess fabric around the shape with string. What should happen is that the areas covered by the shapes should remain white and the rest of the fabric dyes. The fabric was immersed and simmered in the dye for about 20 minutes. 

I used cardboard for cut outs for my shapes which in the triangle pattern gave a nice subtle effect but for the circles, wasn’t strong enough and lead to a bit of bleeding to get a really sharp shape.  I think it would be better to use a wooden or plastic shape, something less porous than cardboard.

The other technique that I have tried this week is Meander - this involves folding the fabric then tying it into little bobble knots to create an effect.  I used yellow, which against a natural cotton didn’t work very well, but it does create a nice effect and once the color has been set, others can be dyed on top to give interesting effects.

Related:  Project kimono to redesign the traditional Japanese dress      Chirimen    Virginia Fitzgerald Dress Project

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