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Permanent Hair Straightening

Different types of hair straightening techniques

Photo of a woman receiving a hair cut at a salon.Have you felt that you would look prettier with your hair straight? You are not alone. Millions of women each year undergo one of several procedures available these days to make their hair straight. The most recent and advanced method of permanent hair straightening is known as Japanese hair straightening (also called thermal conditioning). This system was brought to the U.S. from Japan in 1998. It's kinder to the hair than the old treatments which used hydroxides and lye. (Related:  Hair problems)

How do I know if hair straightening will work for me?

According to the staff at the Salon Cabochon  in Sacramento, California, look for a hairstylist who is specifically trained to work with hair straightening. He or she will be able to assess your hair and give you a recommendation. Not all hair types are ideal for traditional straightening, but the new Japanese hair treatment will work well on almost everybody's hair. The first step is to do a strand test of your hair. This will determine the best strength of the relaxer to be used. Your stylist will also examine your hair's texture, elasticity, and porosity, and will assess any damage present.

What hair products are used?

There are 5 kinds of hair products used and these will be customized to your hair's requirements.

How long does it take?

Anywhere from 3 to 6 hours.

Procedure details

To avoid any chemical burning, a protective petroleum cream may be applied to protect the scalp and also to your hair it it's been previously relaxed or damaged.

A chemical hair relaxer is then applied to loosen, soften, and relax your natural curls. If your hair is overly porous or slightly damaged from being previously over-processed, your stylist may use a conditioner-filler before applying the relaxer. The relaxer is left on for the right amount of time for your hair, and then thoroughly rinsed out with warm water.

Then a neutralizer is applied to your hair to oxidize and restore its pH level. This is because if the relaxer created too high a pH (too alkaline), your hair could swell and break.

Next, a conditioner is applied. There are two types, the cream conditioners and the protein or liquid conditioners. The best type will be used for your hair, to restore some of its natural oils.

Post-relaxing hair care

If a mild hair relaxer is used, such as Ammonium Thioglycolate, known as "thio," there is little risk of your hair being damaged. However, any hair that has been relaxed will need special ongoing care, both to protect the hair and to retain the effects of the straightening.

Relaxed hair becomes a lot more dry. So you should limit your use of hot blow dryers and hot styling tools. And since relaxed hair is also more porous, be sure and rinse all shampoo out very completely. Use a shampoo that's designed for relaxed hair.

Relaxed hair tends to break more easily, so be sure and use a good deep conditioner at least once a week. Also use a good leave-in conditioner after shampooing. Conditioners will coat the hair and restore oils and proteins that were stripped by the chemical processing. This smoothes the damaged outer surface of the hair and makes it more shiny.  When combing out tangles, do it very gently. Use a wide-tooth pick and start at the ends, working in towards the scalp.

What about touch-ups?

Many people like to have their hair professionally straightened at a salon, but like to do relaxing touchups at home. This can work well, as long as you're very careful to apply the touch-up only to the new growth. Don't apply it to the previously relaxed hair because that will possibly cause it to break.

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