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Project Kimono
An effort to redesign the kimono and make it easy to wear

By Laura Nisbet

Young women in Japan no longer wear the kimono as they find its many layers cumbersome, impractical, and not trendy.  This has really set me thinking on how I can redesign the kimono so that it retains its elegance and charm while it is more convenient to wear and appeals to women of all ages. 
 

The collection will consist of tailored adaptations of the kimono, consisting of two-pieces and separates as well as full-length garments.  It will conform to traditional construction techniques of the kimono but will fulfil the requirements of the Japanese woman today.  The typical customers will be in late twenties to late forties and have a high disposable income, a deep interest in fashion but also drawn with nostalgia to Japanese cultural roots. They will be people who like to be dressed fashionably but prefer a quirky one off, rather than mass-produced goods.  The inspiration comes from Textile View (Autumn 01, Issue 05) “The whole season has a sense of theatre about it, a desire to delve in to our cultural roots, to understand our heritage and past before we move forward.”

Influences will be drawn from Japan and its ancient culture. Life in Japan is structured so that everyone and everything has its place and purpose; this will be reflected within the collection. The sereneness of home life, liveliness of culture festivals, traditional prints and kimono styles will all be influential. In turn these traditions will be adapted to become more modern by mixing them with the up and coming western trends.  For example instead of all over prints, placement prints or smaller sections of detail will become apparent. Colors in Japan are drawn from the seasons.  Autumnal reds, copper, gold and indigo blues will be kept and integrated into western season’s colors.

What am I trying to do?

At the moment I am still at the research stage of collecting images and fabrics. I have some lovely Japanese kimono silks on my board that I was sent by a company in London and I have been looking into the technique of Sashiko as well. I am also currently playing around with ideas for changing the shape of the kimono that will in turn be developed into fashion drawings that I will discuss next time.

The designing of a collection can be separated into many processes and the three basic ones are: research, design and produceResearch is being gathered from many sources, for example books, the Internet, and exhibitions and are collected and put onto boards for inspiration at my work desk and later put into sketch books along with ideas for my designs.

I have looked at Japanese home life, textiles and patterns, as well as the art of origami as I am considering using the technique as a way to incorporate pleats and folds into my clothes.

I have also looked at the shape and design of the kimono, from the more traditional to the popular yukata.  I have made a basic kimono shape (without the obi) to get a better idea of what shapes I am working with.

 

 

Continued:  Project to redesign the Japanese kimono  

Related:     Chirimen       Virginia Fitzgerald Dress Project

What do you think?

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